originally written for:
Topics
in Anthropology: Culture and
Consumption
Clara
NiiSka
May 15, 1999
Both Western patterns of consumption, and anthropological analyses of consumption, have embedded within them root premises intrinsic to Western epistemology. In this paper, I shall briefly explore some of the ramifications of these core assumptions, using some aspects of Ahnishinahbæótjibway deer-hunting as a platform from which to approach the profoundly non-Western epistemology of the Ahnishinahbæótjibway.
I shall begin with a sketch of some of the salient aspects of the context within which Ahnishinahbæótjibway deer-hunting occurred, and shall briefly describe Ahnishinahbæótjibway deer-hunting and a few relevant epistemological considerations. Drawing upon an Ahnishinahbæótjibway world-view, I shall then discuss some of the ways in which key assumptions of Western analysis could be reconsidered, and outline some of the parameters which provide not only a cogent theory of Ahnishinahbæótjibway deer-hunting, but also some interesting insights into Western theories of consumption.
Much of the information in this paper is drawn from observations made on the Red Lake Indian Reservation{1}. I spent most of my time prior to February of 1984 in the "Copper City" Indian community near Redby, hunted with both men and women of that community, and listened to the hunting stories which comprise a significant aspect of social conversation. In the spring of 1984 I married Wub-e-ke-niew, who was Ahnishinahbæótjibway of the Bear Dodem, and moved to the rural "Little Rock" area of the reservation, about fifteen miles west of Redby. After our marriage I hunted mostly with Wub-e-ke-niew, and continued to listen to the hunting conversations of Wub-e-ke-niew and our friends and relatives, as well as those of an elderly woman who sometimes claimed me as a "daughter."
Wub-e-ke-niew was a brilliant social theorist in his own right, and both hunting and the ramifications of Western theory were among the topics of our conversations. Many of the insights presented in this paper are his, or were developed jointly in the course of our fourteen years of often-intense discussions, and if he were still living and could thus critique this paper and add his own commentary, I would list him as a co-author.
Some of the background information upon which this paper rests is drawn from research done jointly by Wub-e-ke-niew and me, including a decade of scrutiny focusing on Bureau of Indian Affairs records from the National Archives, along with other historical documents. Also, my understanding has benefited from the corpus of anthropological and other Western academic writing, and from discussions with colleagues, mentors and professors in anthropology.
The standard forma of academic acknowledgement includes a disclaimer to the effect that any deficiency in understanding and interpreting others' work is solely my responsibility. Obviously, this is the case, and it would be both tacky and false to claim that lacunae, thick-headedness, inaccuracies or other problems with my writing were someone else's fault. Even the dog is blameless, the mouse who chewed the label-tabs off of an entire drawer of file folders in 1994 has been eclipsed by time and subsequent events, and I am the only one who holds responsibility for those aspects of this paper which are less than perfect.
I have included as illustrations a
number of Mark Boswell's political cartoons, originally published in
the Ojibwe News in 1988 and 1990.
I thank both Mark Boswell and William J.
Lawrence, publisher of what is presently The
Native American Press/Ojibwe News, for the opportunity to do so.
I do not know whether the crystal-clear and completely integrated abstract dream-time of the "ethnographic present" ever existed anywhere or anytime; the reality at Red Lake between 1979 and 1997 was of multiple cultures and complex, disputed interfaces, set in contexts of ecological and social-cultural change. There were threads of continuity with the past: both the ancient traditions of the Ahnishinahbæótjibway and the more recent ones of the Métis and the Euroamerican fur traders. There were ongoing cultural transformations wrought, deliberately and incidentally, by U.S. policy and administration, as well as the pervasive consequences of globalization and intrusion of the Euroamerican monetary system, television, and other culture-complexes of modernity. In addition, there was a self-conscious adoption of "tradition" and tokens of "Indian" identity by some, including occasional challenges to Euroamerican authority via flagrant off-reservation hunting as a "radical" and/or "militant Indian" assertion of "treaty rights."
A full discussion of the multiple communities at Red Lake and the historical, political and demographic processes which have played a significant role in the formation of those communities would require several books to address adequately. Here, I can do little more than observe that the model of a single "Red Lake Indian community" is inadequate and inaccurate. It is also relevant that both the hunting practices and the conceptual and value systems which underlay them are different for the Ahnishinahbæótjibway than for the Métis and acculturated "White Indians," and that there has been sharp criticism of some of these differences, particularly but not exclusively by the Ahnishinahbæótjibway.
My positionality in the Red Lake communities was strongly influenced by my marriage to Wub-e-ke-niew, who was Ahnishinahbæótjibway of the Bear Dodem. Wub-e-ke-niew was also an author and public speaker, who had a published book and for a number of years wrote a politically-oriented newspaper column. Wub-e-ke-niew was a man of genius-level intelligence,{2} impelled by personal commitments to heal the social pathologies he saw so clearly, and utterly without fear. He would not have been "typical" in any society constrained by normative personal identity, although the only identity norm I have ever heard expressed among Ahnishinahbæótjibway was to "be who you are." In the sometimes discordant and even shattered mosaic of communities at Red Lake, Wub-e-ke-niew was sometimes labeled "controversial." Beyond our circle of friends and relatives, there were people who greatly admired him and some who believed that he was a "prophet" or "medicine man." He consistently discouraged such perceptions, explaining repeatedly that he was "just an ordinary human being like everyone else." There were also people who apparently felt that Wub-e-ke-niew's publicly speaking out was a threat to their positions of power in the U.S.-implemented and -supported administrative structure at Red Lake, and a few who literally wanted to kill, and thus silence, him. At one point some of them offered a bounty, which Wub-e-ke-niew belittled by referring to those who had tried to put a $10,000 price on his head as "cheapskates." Although I fairly deliberately stood in my husband's shadow and kept "a low profile," I was neither invisible nor perceived as completely neutral.
Although I strive to be fair, the analysis in this paper centers around Ahnishinahbæótjibway understandings of hunting: this is the milieu which I know in most detail. Ahnishinahbæótjibway perspectives are often quite different from those of the Métis and other "Indians"--I have not attempted to present the latter in full detail.{3} The clearest vantage from which to make the analyses presented in this paper is that of the Ahnishinahbæótjibway.
The reader's assessment of my writing may be aided by my acknowledgement that I have never been hunting with a "white" Euroamerican. I have talked to whites in the vicinity of Red Lake about hunting (both licensed and "poaching"), I have watched men in blaze-orange tromping through the woods in the fall, I have listened to both Métis and Ahnishinahbæótjibway tell stories about white hunters, and I have read articles about hunting in popular magazines from Mother Jones to Field and Stream. Whites occasionally gave Wub-e-ke-niew and me venison, ranging from butcher-processed meat hunted by culturally mainstream farmers to road-kill spiritually salvaged by northwoods back-to-the-land hippies, and such gifts were inevitably accompanied by stories. But, I do not attempt to compare Ahnishinahbæótjibway hunting practices to white ones. I do not know enough about the latter.
Ahnishinahbæótjibway hunting remained at least partially embedded within patterns of permacultural subsistence until fairly recently. Several informants identified World War II as a watershed of subsistence-base transformation, although some have also commented that significant changes resulted from the land losses of 1864, 1889 and 1902. Other events and processes which informants described as altering the ecosystem in ways which adversely affected permacultural subsistence include: the building of a dam at the outlet to the Red Lakes in the 1930's, logging and other Bureau of Indian Affairs operations, road-building, spraying herbicides on right-of-ways, "white" agriculture and cattle pastures upstream from the Red Lakes, discharge of sewage into rivers and lakes, the influx of refugees from White Earth in the early 1900's, the imposition of the Indian Reorganization Act in 1958-9 and the consequences of that I.R.A. government, recreational use of motor boats by whites in "rice lakes," fires started as a result of non-Ahnishinahbæótjibway activities including Department of Natural Resources burning, drainage ditches and river-dredging, silvicultural chemicals which kill bees and other insects, feral dogs, European-style housing and rural electrification, decline of wolves and beavers, extermination of buffalo and other animals (passenger pigeons, cougars, lynxes, and "pheasants"), near-extermination of sturgeon and population explosions of introduced species like "sheephead," white values (particularly "greed"), compulsory education, linear and abstract thinking, encroachment of the money-system, climatic change, and parasites introduced via domesticated animals specifically including liver-worms transmitted from sheep to deer and intestinal worms from chickens infecting ruffed grouse.
In terms of deer-hunting, one of the aggregate changes is that there are less deer than there used to be. In much the same way as memory is embedded in material objects for urban Euroamericans (e.g., keepsakes, mementos, souvenirs, heirlooms), memory is embedded in the landscape for the Ahnishinahbæótjibway as well as for other rural people in the region. Both Wub-e-ke-niew and the elders I sometimes chauffeured would remark at particular places about having had to wait on the road while hundreds of deer crossed, meadows and fields where they had seen large deer herds, and at other places where there had "always" been deer. (The landscape also evoked descriptions of unusual deer-hunting experiences, the place where someone had gotten their first deer, locations where people long-gone had resided or died, sites of successful moose-hunts, places where people recalled old-growth forests, and other memories. Some of the elders also knew, but usually passed without mention, the specific places where people had been massacred during the nineteenth century.) Older people's in situ descriptions of numerous deer and other abundant fauna were corroborated by other elders, by historical photographs of white hunters posed with huge numbers of dead animals, and by contemporaneous white writers.
One of the problems with the "ethnographic present" is a hypothetical baseline at some mythical time in the past. The historical record demonstrates changes, in some instances radical deep-structural transformations, which have influenced subsistence patterns at Red Lake since the first European and Euroamerican writers (and the diseases which preceded them) arrived. Although in many respects Ahnishinahbæótjibway oral histories of pre-Columbian patterns and events are eminently credible, I believe that the most one can assume is a longstanding dynamic equilibrium resting on relatively stable core interrelationships, rather than a static structure enduring changelessly. Palpable evidence indicating that at least some of the core of Ahnishinahbæótjibway subsistence has significant chronological depth includes distributions of certain kinds of perennial plants, tap-scars on ancient maple trees (Wub-e-ke-niew and I counted more than two thousand years of growth-rings in one such maple which had died some years previously, and which he finally cut for wood), similar tap-scars discernable in the grain of antique maple furniture, deer-trails in isolated and relatively undisturbed swamp areas worn more than a foot into the earth, and the wordless but eloquent testimony given by local strains of garden crops, particularly corn.
The broad-brush outlines of Ahnishinahbæótjibway
subsistence patterns are based on an annual cycle, which I sketch
briefly
below:
In the early spring, at Red Lake usually mid-March, the sap in sugar-maples begins to flow. The extended-family groups which have been described as the "unit" of maple-sugar production fit efficiently with the technology used by the Ahnishinahbæótjibway as well as with informants' explanations that sugar-bushes belonged to the Dodems. A full description of maple-sugaring is not feasible here, but it is relevant that venison tallow is used by the Ahnishinahbæótjibway in two phases of sugar-making: as an anti-foaming agent and to aid sugar-granulation. Such tallow must be obtained before deer have depleted their body-fat in mid-winter, and stored until spring. A Métis woman with whom I made sugar for several years preferred to use pork fat which she obtained from white farmers (and, one year, from pigs she raised), and another Métis from White Earth who ran a large "demonstration" sugarbush in the context of cultural "reclamation" at Red Lake used balsam boughs as an anti-foaming agent and focused on making maple syrup rather than maple sugar. Some Ahnishinahbæótjibway commented that his maple syrup had a "turpentine" taste from the balsam boughs, and, when given jars of maple syrup from his sugarbush would courteously accept the gift, then subsequently give the syrup to someone else along with a comment as to who had made it. Frances Densmore, in her 1929 book Chippewa Customs, details the use of balsam boughs as an anti-foaming agent. There are other instances in which such an "Indian" practice was clearly "reclaimed" from such written accounts--for some of which certain informants were quite probably inventing "tall tales" for an impressively credulous ethnographer, then doubtless telling and re-telling the hilarious chronicle of what the ethnographer had believed. But, it is also possible that the use of balsam boughs by this descendant of White Earth émigrés was a continuation of the practices of some of his ancestors, who because of game wardens' vigorous assertion of State jurisdiction at White Earth did not have reliable access to venison tallow for several generations.
Midway through the sugar-season (the length of which varies according to the weather), spring greens begin growing in sunny patches where the snow has melted. The ice on the rivers and lakes begins to soften, and where there are rapid currents in the river the water opens up quickly. As soon as there is open water, ducks and other migratory waterfowl appear. Canada geese mate, I have been told, "for life," more than one individual has described to me their observing a goose mourning the death of its mate, and no Ahnishinahbæótjibway has ever indicated that geese were hunted before they nested in the spring, so I consider it unlikely that Canada geese were a significant source of food in the spring. Mallard ducks, however, court in the spring and may have been hunted before they found a mate and began building their nests. Other species of migratory waterfowl were either quite rare in the Red Lake area by 1979, or were fish-eating birds which were described as unpalatable by Ahnishinahbæótjibway informants (e.g. pelicans, loons and "hell-divers"). A number of other migratory birds return during or shortly after the sugar-season, including eagles, crows, ravens and robins. I never heard of anyone eating a carnivorous bird, and Wub-e-ke-niew expressed his distaste for domesticated chickens (which are omnivorous scavengers with a remarkably undiscriminating palate) by repeatedly referring to crows as "chickens" when we saw them eating less-than-fresh road-kill and similar fare. He later recanted the implied insult to the crows by calling them "eagles."
The bark loosens on birch trees in
such a way that the outer layers of bark can be removed in sheets
without
destroying the tree, shortly after the end of the sugar-season. Birch-bark was the material from which a
variety of implements used in sugar-making were made, and some older
informants
recalled such birch-bark containers from their childhood, one observing
that
maple sugar "kept" better when stored in birch-bark mokuks
than in the glass, ceramic and
plastic containers which everyone who made sugar at Red Lake used by
the
1980's. If one were using birch-bark
implements in sugar-making and storage, one would need to gather and
store
birch-bark for use in the next year's sugar-bush during that short
period in
the spring when birch-bark can be "peeled" properly.
Birch-bark was also historically used for a
variety of other purposes, including the manufacture of canoes and
building of
long-houses; I assume but do not know that such construction-grade
birch-bark
was peeled from the trees in the same season.
Birch-bark has also recently been used for the manufacture of
cottage-crafted trinkets and curios intended for the tourist trade, and
there
has been a resurgence in the gathering of birch-bark in concert with
"Indian identity" movements.
Inexpert peeling of birch-bark (e.g.
cutting too deeply) can either kill the tree or permanently scar the
portion of
the tree where the bark was removed (it heals with a gray, scaly and
unusable
bark); some elders were quite critical of such damage inflicted on
birch
trees. [Deer and birch trees are
integrated into the same ecosystem, and I am continuing to write about
deer-hunting even when the overt subject of this paragraph is birch
trees; they
are part of the same processes, the same patterns.
Ahnishinahbæótjibway
permacultural subsistence involved long-range planning and respectful,
skillful
give-and-take, and in this way-of-being human beings were of
an ecosystem which also included deer and birches.
Both birch trees and deer have been
adversely affected by the incursion of the market economy and
externally
imposed values.]
Ahnishinahbæótjibway
proscriptions against hunting animals during gestation, lactation or
until the
young are "old enough" to survive on their own are interwoven in many
threads throughout the culture, are sustained by pragmatic explanations
and
descriptions of how the meat is "no good" anyway, and are buttressed
by stories telling, for example, of how Aya'a refrained from hunting
for
several seasons after inadvertently killing a doe with a late-season
pregnancy. Nesting birds were similarly
undisturbed, and when various birds built nests in inconvenient-for-us
places (e.g., in a pickup truck which
Wub-e-ke-niew was repairing, on a tractor), we refrained from
disturbing the
nest until the young birds were fledged and left the nest voluntarily
(although
the day that the young robins flew from the pickup truck, Wub-e-ke-niew
moved
both the nest and the truck to discourage the parents from laying a
second
clutch of eggs). Swallows nested for
several years in our out-house and our tool-shed, and Wub-e-ke-niew
always
spoke to the parent birds before entering either building with a
courteous
statement like, "Hello, can I come in?" The
birds would sit on a branch just outside as they waited for
us to leave, and when they became impatient, Wub-e-ke-niew would
reassure them.
Shortly after the end of the sugar-season, the morels ripen and fiddleheads and other early spring greens are at their prime. The ice goes off the rivers and lakes, and there was a succession of fish-runs as the carp, walleye pike and northern pike went into creeks and rivers to spawn. Older informants talked about fish running so densely in the creeks that a person "could almost walk across on their backs," and a number of people have told me about reaching into the creek and catching fish by grasping them behind the gills, a fishing technology which reportedly remained productive into the 1960's. The spear-fishing which has played a role in treaty-rights controversies in Wisconsin (and to a lesser extent in Minnesota) has been largely spear-fishing by torchlight on lakes (one Métis informant detailed making birchbark torches to me; such have been supplanted by twelve-volt electric lights). In the Red Lake region most of the spear-fishing in the 1980's was done in daylight, spearing fish while standing on the banks of creeks and rivers. At that time, people commented that the fish-runs had declined dramatically, and attributed the decimation of fish populations to a number of factors, including over-fishing and use of small-mesh "illegal nets" by a handful of (named) commercial fishermen, obstruction of tributaries by dams and culverts, pollution and the fish-trap operated by the DNR for the purpose of collecting spawn to "stock" off-reservation lakes for sports fishermen in Minnesota. By 1990, Wub-e-ke-niew had retired his spears to the tool-shed, and subsequently gave one of them away with the admonition that it would be useful only in "demonstrations," since there weren't any fish left to spear, and in any event it was inadvisable to eat local fish because of mercury contamination. The spring fish-runs were an important source of food for bears waking from hibernation, as well as for the Ahnishinahbæótjibway, and when the spawning fish disappeared, Wub-e-ke-niew began leaving fifty-pound bags of corn in the woods near their dens for the bears. (He also told the clerks at the regional farmers' co-ops where he bought the corn and other food that demolishing the ecosystem to grow corn and sunflower seeds, which he then had to purchase to feed animals whose natural foods had been destroyed, was a foolish, egocentric and short-sighted way to run the world.)
Shortly after the sugar-season, there is usually a warm dry spell lasting for a week or longer, which dries soil soaked with snow-melt with weather ideal for preparing gardens. Most of the people who still gardened at Red Lake had more than one garden, a pattern which maximizes micro-climatic niches, makes it possible to maintain several distinct varieties, and distributes the risk of crop-damage across several locations. The dispersed--and unfenced--gardens made by Wub-e-ke-niew and some other elders were in relatively small clearings in the woods; I would guess there is an optimal garden size for long-cycle forest fallow subsistence patterns, which for the Ahnishinahbæótjibway cycled from gardens to perennial fruits and berries (which are more productive in the increased light-levels of garden-clearings), then back to multi-story forest.
Although the growing season at Red Lake is short (about 100 frost-free days and nights), there are a number of agricultural technologies used by the Ahnishinahbæótjibway which made it possible to grow corn, beans, squash, potatoes, tobacco, and other relatively long-season crops. There were also some impressive local varieties. People told me about "Red Lake corn" for years, describing the color, kernel-markings and other details, and after I had grown other varieties of heirloom corn for several seasons and, along with Wub-e-ke-niew, put a great deal of energy into encouraging community gardening, someone gave me a pint jar of still-viable Red Lake hominy-corn seed. The limited growing season at Red Lake is further "stretched" by germinating large-seeded staple crops in the warmth of one's home (using techniques akin to those used by Euroamericans in growing "sprouts"), hopefully timing the process so that crops planted from such germinated seed will emerge into the first frost-free days and nights of the growing season. Local gardeners were also quite aware that gardens grown close to the big lakes usually escaped the first few frosts in the fall, and more than one person told me that the Ponemah peninsula between the Red Lakes had a significantly longer growing season.
Despite some truly elegant varieties of staple crops (and, I strongly suspect, other annual and perennial plants which have either become extinct or have been "lost" in the ecocidal and genocidal mayhem of recent centuries), the climate at Red Lake is such that I do not know if it would be possible to subsist, in the long term, without hunting and fishing. The USDA maps an irregular island encompassing Red Lake and International Falls, Minnesota, as almost the only region of "zone 2" climate within the boundaries of the continental U.S., colder than most of the agricultural belt across southern Canada, colder than much of the Alaskan coastline. When early frosts killed my corn plants when the grain had reached only the late milk-stage one year, an elder matter-of-factly advised that drying the seeds unshelled on cobs hung indoors on braided husks would maintain the viability of some of the seed (it did), although the corn had not matured sufficiently to make hominy.
The Ahnishinahbæótjibway subsistence base was distributed across the entire mosaic of interrelated ecosystems--various swamps, several kinds of forests, prairies, rivers and lakes--in such a way that the abundance of the entire region would support a fairly large population without depleting or damaging the permacultural infrastructure, and was diverse enough so that sparsity of one staple in any given year would be offset by adequacy and even abundance of others. It also appears that there was fairly broadly distributed community knowledge of food sources which, although they may not have been exceptionally palatable, were (when processed properly) edible and reasonably nutritious.
There may be trace minerals which would eliminate the possibility of humans subsisting on a locally-grown vegetarian diet at Red Lake (a likely candidate being iodine), and if living without hunting and fishing in that climate would have been possible, it would have required extensive restructuring of longstanding permacultural systems, and possibly a decline in human population density. A correlated but anecdotal observation is that when I did eat a vegetarian diet for several months, my tolerance for extremely cold weather plummeted.
Shortly after the gardens were planted, summer-fishing began. Most of the fishing done at Red Lake between 1979 and the depletion of the lakes in the mid-1990's was commercial gill-netting, which, along with the dam and other processes of ecological degradation, has radically transformed the lake ecosystems. Analysis of fishery records would provide some indication of the details of this transformation, although to the best of my knowledge there has been significant diversion of walleye pike and other "premium" fish into (illegal according to Minnesota statutes) fish-peddling enterprises for at least as long as the commercial fishery has been in existence, i.e. since World War I. Elders whom I chauffeured sometimes directed me to meandering "short-cuts" across the farm-country to the west and south of Red Lake, and, clearly enjoying the detour along memory lane, would often point out farmhouses where they had once sold fish or traded them for farm produce (as well as now-barren lakes where they had once riced).
Wub-e-ke-niew and I episodically commercial-fished in partnership with small-scale entrepreneurs. The owner of the boat, motor, pickup truck and nets paid for gasoline, and sometimes hired others to remove fish from the gill-nets and hang the nets. Wub-e-ke-niew and I would set and pull the nets (typically ten to fifteen hundred-foot gill-nets), collect most or all of the weekly fishery check, and take our choice of the non-premium fish ("lawyers," bull-heads, gold-eyes, whitefish, "suckers" (carp), and sheephead, although the latter were generally considered only marginally edible) for our household consumption. The entrepreneur would collect the entire "fish bonus" paid by the fishery in December, usually slightly more than the total dollar-amount of the fish-checks paid during the summer fishing season. We were not atypical in earning somewhat less than the minimum wage doing work at which someone was "taken by the lake" almost every year. If the entrepreneur diverted a significant portion of his or her catch into fish-peddling, we earned even less--and the difference between 17-35 cents per pound paid by the fishery for walleye pike, and the one to two dollars per fish for which walleyes were peddled to trusted customers was tempting, despite the risk of arrest for off-reservation "bootlegging" of fish, to everyone for whom we fished.
Wub-e-ke-niew strongly disapproved of the usual practice of discarding hundreds of pounds of "rough fish" per catch, and, after I experimented with numerous ways of cooking the introduced "sheephead," he decided to market sheephead (which were not at that time covered by Minnesota game-fish legislation) to Asian groceries in the Twin Cities. He arranged with other fishermen to take their sheephead, packed them on ice in an old freezer in the back of our van, and gave samples to every Asian grocer he could locate. The initially enthusiastic reception of many of those grocers was replaced by refusal to deal with him--Wub-e-ke-niew believed that this radical shift in attitude was because "someone from the Bureau" had contacted the Asian grocers as soon as the B.I.A. learned of his plans, which was not a far-fetched interpretation. Wub-e-ke-niew then transported rough fish to the Twin Cities and gave them away in the housing projects. He told me about people coming to our van with every container they could find, some, he said, with tears in their eyes as they thanked him for the food. The Minnesota legislature then passed legislation prohibiting transport of rough fish off of Red Lake reservation. The ratio of sheephead to marketable fish in the nets we pulled was, at that time, often fifteen pounds of sheephead to one pound of everything else; we quit commercial-fishing. I detail Wub-e-ke-niew's strong responses to discarding hundreds of pounds of rough fish per catch largely as an illustration of Ahnishinahbæótjibway values, which also apply to hunting, as well as to gathering of permacultural crops: one takes only what is necessary, and does not waste what is taken.
There were a number of edible mollusks in the lakes and rivers, as well as crayfish. I never heard of any proscriptions against eating them and when I asked about them the usual response was that they were probably good eating, but I also never heard of anyone eating them.
Older people frequently told me that they remembered when the water in the Red Lakes was so clean that they could "see the rocks on the bottom of the lake" through thirty feet of crystal-clear water; during the late summer of 1997 one could barely discern the bottom through two feet of water, and the shoreline rocks were covered with slime. Elders also reminisced about catches so bountiful that their boats rode homeward perilously low in the water, and about the years in the not-so-distant past when a person hook-and-line fishing would "catch a fish with almost every cast." During the nineteen summers I knew the Red Lakes, I observed a marked deterioration of water quality and believe that these elders' chronicles of the destruction of the Red Lakes, and the ways of life that the lakes sustained, are credible. Some of the processes which these people blamed are mentioned above; Wub-e-ke-niew repeatedly stressed that the forests, swamps and lakes were inseparably interrelated parts of a single ecosystem, and that clear-cutting the forests, use of agricultural and silvicultural chemicals, and other manifestations of "Euroamerican linear thinking" would inevitably devastate the lakes. One of our close friends, an Ahnishinahbæótjibway of the Dodems with close kinship ties to fishing families in Ponemah, stressed the fishery-destruction due to whites' use of chemicals, "including 2-4-D," he would usually add in outraged incredulity, in Euroamerican-administered paddy-rice operations draining into the Red Lakes.
The Red Lakes are presently in
serious enough trouble that news items about depletion of the Red Lake
fisheries reach print in mainstream media; in those media the problems
are
usually attributed to "Indian over-fishing" and the proposed
solutions focus on a moratorium on commercial fishing and re-stocking
programs. Over-fishing is but one aspect
of the
problem, and the root causes run much deeper than that.
Beginning in mid-June with the strawberries, a succession of permacultural fruits ripened throughout the summer and into the fall: after the strawberries came juneberries (service-berries), raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, pin-cherries, currants and goose-berries (now nearly exterminated due to forestry pine-rust control programs), high-bush cranberries, choke-cherries, bog-cranberries, plums and apples. Elders described drying blueberries and "pounding" choke-cherries to me, but apart from blueberries (which continued to be picked in quantity to be frozen or canned until crops declined drastically because of wetland drainage programs and decimation of bee populations) and cranberries (which are presently grown commercially), by 1979 most of these fruits were casually picked and eaten on the spot, or were made into jams and jellies by some older women. There are a number of other edible and quasi-edible fruits growing at Red Lake, which were sometimes gathered incidental to other activities (e.g., taking enough wintergreen to make a few pots of medicinal tea while picking blueberries); not everyone of the younger generations knew what these less-used or rarer plants were.
Ahnishinahbæótjibway say that the deer and other large mammals were "ready," meaning in part that the young had matured enough to survive without their mothers, by late August or early September, although summer-hunting seems to have focused on "spike bucks" (male yearlings). As Wub-e-ke-niew explained it to a deer who had developed a taste for a fancy variety of my cultivated onions, "you come back when the [new] potatoes are ready, and I'll have a good meal." I was told that the Red Lake area previously sustained significant populations of woods buffalo, caribou, and elk, in addition to the now-extant moose, bear, and two distinguished species of deer (white-tailed and "swamp"). Moose and deer were hunted from late summer through early winter. Fawns were not hunted, it was considered shameful to accidentally kill such a young animal, and "fawn-killer" was an insult.
Bear-hunting was a touchy issue with my husband--because of the Bear Dodem he understood us to have a blood-kinship relationship with bears. He was an outspoken critic of Métis killing bears for their commercially-valuable claws, as well as of the Tribal Council's practice of setting bear-traps adjacent to their garbage dumpsters. He wrote in his column that feral dogs were doubtless responsible for most of the plunder of the Indians' garbage, since it continued unabated during the winter when the bears were in hibernation. We had several bears living on our property, and Wub-e-ke-niew defended them, cherished them, and fed them when he felt that their natural foods were sufficiently depleted to jeopardize their survival. He not infrequently told the story of the yearling bear whom he had scared by rapping a newspaper on the kitchen screen when the bear looked in the window. He subsequently saw the bear sitting down by the garden. "He was crying," Wub-e-ke-niew said, "and I felt so bad I had to do something." He filled a roasting-pan with a mixture of honey, raisins, corn syrup and other bear-treats, and took it into the woods where the bear would find it. He was pleased when the bear accepted his gift, and then periodically concocted more treats for the bear until he/she matured. When one of Wub-e-ke-niew's Métis nephews used Wub-e-ke-niew's rifle to kill a dump-ground bear despite Wub-e-ke-niew's admonitions, my husband skinned the bear and gave the meat to someone who did eat bear, but then gave away his rifle and did not hunt for several seasons.
The Métis's disregard for the hunting ethics of the Ahnishinahbæótjibway were the source of considerable criticism by the latter. The Métis, often named individuals in respect to particular instances, were condemned for killing fawns, hunting out-of-season, killing foxes and other animals for which they had no conceivable use, "killing everything that moves and leaving it lay," hunting trophy-bucks for sale to white hunters and then not using the meat if the deer were unsold, killing excessive numbers of deer and moose, setting trap-lines improperly and not checking them frequently enough, killing deer and taking only the hindquarters and tenderloins or discarding the entire carcass at the dumpground, letting deer hang in warm weather so that the meat spoiled or letting skinned deer hang so long in cold weather that the meat was consumed by "woodpeckers" (carnivorous wrens), wounding animals and then not tracking them, wounding deer by attempting "head shots" at too great a distance, shooting signs for target-practice, killing the wrong deer out in a herd, and general disrespect. They were laughed at (or pitied) for getting disoriented or lost in the woods, and for their inability to see deer who were plainly visible to Ahnishinahbæótjibway.
White hunters, with whom the Ahnishinahbæótjibway had more than casual social contact both as hired guides and in the checkerboarded "ceded lands" where both whites and Red Lakers hunted, were castigated for "taking sound shots{4}," getting lost in the woods, killing domesticated animals and endangering everybody, and general carelessness with firearms. Wub-e-ke-niew, for example, told of his last stint as a guide. Wub-e-ke-niew loaded the white hunters into a sports utility vehicle, and as they set off, one of the men in the back seat accidentally discharged his rifle, blowing a hole through the roof of the vehicle. Wub-e-ke-niew said that he got out, told the men that they would have to find another guide, and walked away, abandoning both the white hunters and his job as a guide. Some white hunters are also characterized as spending the hunting season drinking and whoring, then buying a deer on the reservation "so they have something to show their wives." It probably merits mentioning that the designation "white hunter" was applied in this context mostly to the perceived-to-be-wealthy urbanites who come to the region during hunting season, that many of the local whites have generations-long social relationships with the people at Red Lake, and that many of these locals hunt for food, with skill and respect, and particularly among the self-designated "jackpine savages," not infrequently without bothering with the expensive formality of a hunting license. Processes and patterns of ascribing characteristics to the "other," and interaction and avoidance by people of socially distinct groups who are unlikely to hunt together, but who hunt on contiguous or overlapping territory, would be an interesting topic but is not further detailed here.
Deer and rabbits (properly hunted only after the first snow-fall) were the staple mammals; ruffed grouse, ducks and "pheasants" (prior to their disappearance) the staple birds. Moose had more renown than deer, when someone got a moose the news circulated on the "moccasin telegraph," and a man's abilities as a hunter were to some degree indexed by the moose he had gotten. When Wub-e-ke-niew and I were courting, one of the things which he told me was that he had killed "twenty-seven moose," by which he meant that he was a capable hunter and a good provider, and thus a desirable prospective spouse (and also that he had, in fact, killed twenty-seven moose). In detailing his moose, he also described the ways in which he had given away moose-meat, indicating that he was not only competent, but also generous.
Moose are big. A mature female moose whom Wub-e-ke-niew and I hunted together weighed more than the semi-compact American car{5} which we initially used to hoist her for skinning--when we parked the car, the moose started to come down and the car to go up into the air. One of the parameters of community-size among people who hunt moose while the weather is still warm, is that (at least prior to the advent of deep-freezers) the group through which one distributes meat has to be big enough to eat (and/or dry, which is a lot of work) a mature moose before it spoils.
The optimum and/or preferred ways in which to hunt, the ways in which the meat is distributed or otherwise retained for future use, the characteristics of the meat and of the hides, and the animals upon whom hunting focuses vary with the season: late-summer hunting is different than winter-hunting. I shall detail a few of these specifics as they pertain to deer-hunting in a subsequent section of this paper.
Apart from greenhouse-started tomatoes and cucumbers, and introduced European crops like spinach, lettuce, scallions and green peas, gardens begin significant production in August, with green beans, sweet corn, new potatoes, and (another introduced crop) carrots. If the weather is good, the bulk of the harvest matures slightly before the first frost, usually by mid-September. Wub-e-ke-niew described his grandfather's using straw-lined storage pits for potatoes and other garden produce; one woman I knew dug a hole in the floor of her basement for storing a bumper crop of potatoes, and I have also been told that potatoes can be stored, frozen, outside during the winter, and that if they are not thawed before cooking they are "good" in soups and stews. I never tried freezing potatoes, but properly cured squash can also be kept outside during the winter, and is still palatable when baked.
Most of the annual garden crops usually attributed to the Ahnishinahbæótjibway are starchy, sometimes high-protein or oily, staples. My guess is that some quasi-incidental crops (tolerated or encouraged "weeds") have disappeared or been forgotten; I found it interesting that most of the weeds in our gardens were Eurasian or European immigrants and that some of them (e.g. dandelions, lambs-quarters) had been incidental edibles in Europe. Wub-e-ke-niew blamed cattle and horses for spreading many of those weeds, observing that the old road to White Earth ran through our yard, and that one of the indications of that road abandoned more than forty years previously was clover (another was the discarded liquor bottles we found occasionally in the woods near the old road). Horses and oxen pulled carts along that road for many decades.
I often let weeds in my gardens mature enough so that I could identify them (and thus gave myself an ongoing problem with sow's thistle--another aggressive Eurasian plant). But, I never found significant weed populations of any indigenous plant, with the exception of persistent stinging-nettles in one garden we planted after clearing those nettles from an area which had been a fenced horse-pasture in the 1920's and early 1930's.
Gardening, even in the absence of European and Eurasian weeds, is more work than permaculture, and it seems reasonable that the crops for which it would be worth investing that kind of labor would be ones of exceptional nutritional, medicinal, culinary, aesthetic and/or other value. Gardening highly domesticated plants also involves a degree of control and "regimentation" of the plants which is significant, especially when compared to the relative autonomy of perennial permacultural crops. I wondered about Ahnishinahbæótjibway condiments and seasonings, successfully grew grain-amaranth to maturity and contemplated that pre-Columbian trade routes were such that if grain-amaranth and similar crops were seen as sufficiently valuable to merit cultivating them, they would have been grown at Red Lake. I also thought about the aesthetics of gardeners long-gone, and their magnificent legacy of beauty far beyond utility which endured in delicately patterned corn and beans, multi-colored corn-husks which provided the already-dyed raw materials for mats and other objects woven from corn-husks, and the amazing aesthetics of heirloom squashes. Corn, beans, potatoes, squashes, tomatoes, peppers ... plants from a wide range of families, all of them in varieties embodying the "four colors" (red, yellow, blue and white), so beautiful they were cultivated for purely decorative purposes by European immigrants, the staples large-seeded plants which are presently marketed for children as easy-to-grow, the "three sisters" growing together with remarkable synergy{6}, foods providing impressively balanced nutrition. There is much about Ahnishinahbæótjibway gardening which I do not know, and extensive horticultural and permacultural knowledge no longer held by the living.
Mahnomen ("wild rice") matures in September. I have helped with the secondary processing of mahnomen (parching, threshing and winnowing) but have never harvested it, although I have listened to many people who have. The basics of mahnomen harvest have become well-publicized with the development of domesticated "non-shattering" varieties used in commercial paddy-cultivation and extensively marketed, and descriptions of "Indian wild rice" harvest accompanied by photographs are published annually in mainstream media, so I shall not reiterate a detailed description here. It is worth adding, however, that waterfowl flocked to the ripe mahnomen, and that duck-hunting accompanied the mahnomen harvest.
points in this discussion of Ahnishinahbæótjibway permaculture include that mahnomen is an annual plant, and permacultural cultivation depends on the reseeding which accompanies harvest of the shattering varieties. It is also relevant that, according to oral histories which were told to me, mahnomen has been deliberately planted: by named individuals in specified locations.
A detailed description of the interrelationship of beaver populations with the infrastructure of climax ecosystems in the northwoods is beyond the scope of this paper, although the dynamic equilibrium of beavers, aspens and otters is a crucial aspect of the foundation of Ahnishinahbæótjibway permaculture. A balance around the saturation-level of beaver populations maintains navigable water-levels, contributes to water clarity, and improves the habitat for a wide variety of other species ranging from fish to moose to ducks--as well as substantially increasing the areas in which mahnomen can grow. The decimation of beavers incurred in conjunction with the fur trade had wide-ranging consequences, not the least of which was a significant decrease in the areas in which mahnomen could be grown. Mahnomen is one of the staples of the Ahnishinahbæótjibway permacultural cycle.
Fall-fishing focuses on whitefish. During the period when I observed and participated in fishing activities, whitefish were occasionally caught in the summer, but were deliberately fished for with larger-mesh gill-nets (called "whitefish nets") during the period in the fall when they came inshore to spawn. Fall whitefish are a rich, fatty fish (in many traditional cuisines, fat is considered desirable), and the portion of the catch which was not distributed through the Red Lake communities to be eaten fresh was either stored in people's electric deep-freezers, or was preserved by brining and smoking the fish (I don't know how fish was smoked prior to the European-introduced abundance of salt). Whitefish were also caught during the winter, as described below in the section on winter-fishing.
Ruffed grouse, locally known as "partridges," are hunted for a few weeks after the leaves fall from the trees in the autumn. During this period, they are easily visible either on the forest floor, or in the evening after they have flown into trees to roost for the night. The cyclic variations of ruffed grouse populations are one of the classic textbook cases illustrative of ecological interrelationships; I emphasize ruffed grouse in a separate category mostly because partridge-hunting is one of the highlights of those crystalline days of autumn when the forests are carpeted with golden leaves and the warmth of the slanting afternoon sunlight is poignant with the realization that each warm day could be the last for six months. Ruffed grouse are not a staple of the same magnitude as fish or venison, but they are a significant seasonal food--and a person who went to "look for partridge" sometimes came back with a deer.
At least two species of hazelnuts were the most common nuts in the Red Lake area, although there were also occasional butter-nut trees. Hazelnuts were occasionally gathered and eaten shortly after harvest as a snack. Although hazelnuts are a brushy plant which reaches bearing-age in logged or otherwise disturbed areas in less than twenty years and are therefore fairly common, the people who gathered them said that the squirrels "beat them to" most of the nuts. Hazelnut seeds were among the collection of garden-seeds given to us by someone whose elderly mother had gone into a nursing home; I did not have an opportunity to talk to her about her seeds.
There are several species of oak which grow in the Red Lake area. Oak trees, particularly red oaks, are subject to fairly heavy pressure as a consequence of the Métis (many of whom cut green trees for firewood) and regional whites seeing them as a premium winter-heating wood; I have seen people spot a red oak while putatively in the woods for other purposes, cut it down and into blocks, and load up their pickup truck within a couple of hours after first encountering the tree.
Almost all of the mature oaks at Red Lake were logged off years ago; most of the oaks extant in 1980 were no more than sixty or seventy years old. Many of these second-growth oaks were cut and burned during the mid-1980's, after the local forestry authorities defined these immature but nut-bearing trees as "scrub oaks" with no commercial value. Acorns are a staple food for bears in the fall, and Wub-e-ke-niew and some of his cohorts made sustained objections to the logging--Wub-e-ke-niew used political satire in his newspaper column to characterize the forestry policy-makers as ignorant fools. Some of the area where these oaks grew was then officially re-categorized as "bear habitat," meaning that some stands of bearing-age oaks remained, but also that a number of bears residing along the south shore of lower Red Lake were live-trapped by authorities, to be released in the "bear habitat" area. Among the bears "removed" was the mother of a barely-weaned cub who resided on Wub-e-ke-niew's and my land.
Densmore (1928) mentions acorns as among the foods classified as edible by the people who were her informants, and as a person with some California cultural roots I consider acorns not only edible but delicious, although they require a fair amount of labor to prepare: shelling, grinding and leaching the tannins prior to cooking. Over the years, I talked with a number of people about acorns as food. Most of them politely agreed that it would be possible to eat them, but then indicated that deer and bears enjoyed acorns and that the acorns could be left in the woods. One woman added that she had once grazed pigs under oak trees in the fall, and that the pigs relished the acorns.
Although it was said that "some people" summer-hunted cotton-tails, the staple "rabbit" was the snow-shoe hare, hunted after the first snowfall and when their fur had changed to winter-white. Rabbits were hunted with a .22 rifle (or shotgun), or with snares set after the snow was deep enough so that the rabbits usually traveled along the paths which they made through the snow. I have seen more than one older man hold his pocketful of change mixed with .22 bullets
in the palm of hand, and speak of the mixture as so many cents and so many rabbits, one .22 shell being equivalent to one rabbit. Larger-caliber bullets were sometimes similarly identified as "deer" or even "moose," one of the underlying implications being that the owner of the ammunition was a good enough hunter so that he/she could make a clean kill with one bullet. A part of the cultural context also included remembered years during which ammunition was scarce and/or required a significant cash outlay in a largely non-monetary economy, and many older men including Wub-e-ke-niew were experts at "bore-sighting" rifles--properly aligning the sights or scope without the expenditure of a bullet. During the years that I was married to Wub-e-ke-niew, I used a total of five bullets in target-practice: one to demonstrate to my husband that I was an accurate shot before I carried a rifle while hunting with him, one in target practice casually undertaken in the presence of a gossipy visitor after death threats were delivered to Wub-e-ke-niew, and three in testing a newly-acquired gun which could not be bore-sighted. Wub-e-ke-niew indulged certain of our urbanized guests' "shooting up" his ammunition when they visited, but commented about their wastefulness after they returned to the Cities; the friends in front of whom he ruefully examined his nearly-empty ammunition box concurred with his assessment.
Rabbits were plentiful until recently, and the general understanding was that if one had bullets or snare-wire, any competent person need not go hungry in the winter-time. Almost everyone I knew owned at least a few lengths of medium-gauge picture-wire, which was the preferred material for making rabbit snares. Even when people had refrigerators and deep-freezers, rabbits were often frozen outside, intact and unskinned, and kept in the trunk of a non-functioning car or a defunct refrigerator to protect them from dogs. (Deer hunted in the winter were sometimes similarly frozen and hung in trees, unskinned until needed.) When a person was ready to prepare the animal for cooking, the rabbit (or deer) was brought inside to thaw. The usual method of preparing a rabbit was to boil the entire animal except the feet and ears (skinned, gutted and sometimes cut apart), and add mahnomen, potatoes, hominy, oatmeal or elbow macaroni. In the context of Indian-identity resurgence, snaring rabbits became an icon of real Indian-ness, and during the early 1980's a bumper sticker displaying a stereotypical "Indian" feather head-dress and the logo "Rabbit Choker" was popular among some groups of urban Indians in the Twin Cities.
Muskrats, beavers, porcupines, wood-chucks and skunks were also considered edible, and a few older people told me that they sometimes craved beaver-tails. Skunk-oil was generally known as a no-longer used specific for colds and respiratory problems; according to Wub-e-ke-niew, his grandfather often cooked skunk for him, Wub-e-ke-niew thought because his mother had died and his father was dying of tuberculosis, and skunk probably strengthened the lungs.
When I asked about other animals, I was not infrequently told about a white man who had married a Métis woman (named, and although he had been dead for a generation, still well-known for his rain-making exploits, dance costume, et cetera). This man ate squirrels, the connotation being that a taste for squirrel was a personal idiosyncrasy of that individual and that his wife accommodated him by cooking them. Raccoons, which had become plentiful in the Red Lake area since World War II, were occasionally hunted by some people for their pelts, but were not usually cooked and eaten, the explanation being that one had to locate and remove numerous "glands" in order to make them edible. Regional whites were sometimes mentioned as people who oven-roasted raccoons. I was told, "you could ask [so-and-so, a white] for a recipe, when I asked about cooking raccoons.
I never heard of anybody eating wolves, foxes, weasels, otters, mink or other carnivorous animals, although such animals were sometimes hunted by older Métis who remained casually involved in the fur trade, and occasionally killed by an Ahnishinahbæótjibway as a source of badly-needed cash. The skinned carcasses were usually given to the dogs.
Except for turtles, which were reputed to be delicious and have "seven kinds of meat," I never heard of anybody eating amphibians, reptiles or invertebrates. Although there were a number of jokes about people of French ancestry eating frogs, I did not know anyone who admitted to actually eating frogs. Some people caught frogs, but said they intended to use them as bait when hook-and-line fishing for walleye pike.
Prior to the widespread availability of electricity in the 1960's (and thus the advent of household television), hunting small birds in the summertime and cooking them in the woods was understood as an activity of young boys. One man had acquired a childhood reputation of carrying a salt-shaker in his pocket so that he would be prepared whenever he got a bird; thirty years later he was still known for having done so.
transport onto the ice for fishing. Whitefish were one of the foci of winter-fishing, and as long as the weather remained cold, whitefish not prepared or given away fresh were preserved by hanging them outside on racks built high enough to be beyond the reach of dogs. Although fish are reputedly less active in the winter, I know of none which hibernate.
The Red Lakes are big enough so that after they have frozen all the way across, the ice shifts like tectonic plates, creating pressure-ridges and fissures which may extend to the open water below six feet of ice. There are also springs and currents in the lakes which contour the ice on the lower surface. There are days when the wind roars across the miles of ice, blowing snow, creating near white-out conditions and arctic wind-chill factors. The air-temperature occasionally plummets to sixty degrees below zero (Fahrenheit), and there is usually at least one ten-day stretch when the temperature never warms to zero (Fahrenheit). Wolves travel on the ice, sometimes surveying the shore from a few hundred feet out, and occasionally crossing the lakes.
I have sketched a brief outline of seasonal subsistence patterns, as at least a few continued to engage in such subsistence practices through 1997 at Red Lake. It merits reiterating that during those years, there was significant ongoing environmental degradation in the Red Lake region. I have touched on some of these problems above, and will add that during those nineteen years vast tracts of second-growth forest were clear-cut and that thousands of acres were burned. As mentioned above, fish populations plummeted during that period. There was also a marked decrease in rabbit and deer populations, as measured not only by the number of people who returned from hunting successfully and the frequency with which we saw deer and other species, but also by an almost complete absence of deer- and rabbit-trails in the snow during the winters of 1995 and 1996--in areas where such trails had crisscrossed the woods just a few years previously.
The subsistence practices detailed above were not the normal routine of the majority of people residing at Red Lake after the late 1960s, with the exception of summer commercial-fishing. A reasonably accurate general description of majority subsistence practices would be set in the context of a class-stratified, administered U.S. Indian reservation, and very briefly summarized as a mosaic based on government funding, resource extraction, monopoly businesses and transfer-payments. Food was purchased at regional grocery stores and at restaurants and fast-food chains "in town." Food provided by "meals on wheels" programs targeted toward the elderly was distributed beyond the funded recipients; there were also school lunch programs and congregate-dining "elderly nutrition" lunch programs. The diets of some families included significant amounts of permacultural foods, particularly fish and meat; others refused to eat or did not "like" venison or moose-meat{7}. Government-surplus "commodities" were distributed to low-income people, then circulated through the rest of the community via gifts, barter and sales. Before the "sanitary landfills" were closed and replaced by "transfer stations," some people salvaged food found while doing other scavenging at the dump ("shopping at the Red Lake K-Mart," in local parlance). Some such food was given to dogs and domesticated animals like chickens and pigs, and some was considered "perfectly good" and thus fit for human consumption.
In the foregoing section, I have focused on subsistence patterns as seen through the lens of food, and have largely ignored material and other aspects of culture as well as the kinship and other social matrices in which these subsistence patterns were set. Since the analytical crux of this paper is deer-hunting and length constraints require a fairly delimited focus, I have stressed food. Although deer also provided clothing, medicine, household and ceremonial objects and even agricultural implements in the recorded and/or remembered past, and even though buckskin plays a multi-faceted role in contemporary "Indian" culture, during the period between 1979 and 1997, hides and other products derived from deer played an incidental role in Red Lake deer-hunting. Deer-hunting was not only "about" food, and from some perspectives one could write that one of the motivations for deer-hunting had to do with identity even though the primary emic raisons d'etre for hunting included food. In addition, I am aware that among the intended audience of this paper are vegetarians for whom deer-hunting may seem an anathema, and I have tried to place the killing and eating of deer in the broader context of a relatively integrated system of subsistence and a permacultural interrelationship with an ecosystem which made survival in a relatively rigorous climate not only possible but abundant.
A
detailed description
of contemporary dietary practices
at Red Lake is beyond the scope of this paper, although in the
interests of
accuracy and avoiding the morass of the "ethnographic present," I
shall make a few summary observations.
Very briefly, from the mid 1960s through 1997 there was a mosaic
of
normative fares, the salient variables including income/social class,
ethnic
background, the complex of boarding school
experiences/acculturation/identity,
orientation toward asserting more "traditional" identities, education
and nutritional knowledge, generational differences, time available for
cooking
(including factors such as single parenthood and employment), alcohol
use,
family traditions and personal taste.
At the less remunerative end of the socio-economic scale, some
families'
daily fare was frugal but deliberately health-conscious--and some of
the women
at Red Lake are extremely good cooks.
Others' diets centered around government commodities, macaroni
and
bread, fatty cuts of pork, eggs and potatoes; and some frequently ate
what I
would characterize as a "modern poverty" diet based on
staples like hot dogs, cheap commercial white bread, dry breakfast cereal and Kool-Aid, with "pop and chips" as a "treat." I was not on intimate terms with any of the wealthiest families at Red Lake, and would venture only the tentative observation that what these people ate was not dissimilar from Euroamericans of similar socio-economic status (although perhaps with somewhat more red meat, including moose and venison prepared from Euroamerican-style butcher-cuts). There were more than a few households in which "traditional" foods were eaten with regularity, and particularly during the summer-fishing season local fish was fairly widely dispersed throughout the community. Moose, and to a lesser extent venison, was also distributed well beyond the nuclear household(s) of the hunters.
There was also a "ceremonial" menu which was fairly standard across the Red Lake communities. Ceremonial fare varied slightly with the occasion--there were certain foods which were almost always served at wakes (like bologna sandwiches on white bread) and others which characterized other events. Ceremonial feasts included many of the staple and seasonal "traditional" foods detailed above as well as an iconic-at-Red Lake macaroni dish, and also almost invariably included such foods as Jell-o incorporating fruit cocktail and sometimes topped with Kool-Whip, and "fry bread." (An older white woman told me that Jell-o jiggily cementing an aggregate of fruit cocktail, bananas and marshmallows is a standard dish at local whites' ceremonial meals, including "funerals.") As at Euroamericans' rural church pot-luck dinners, ceremonial feasts involved the culinary contributions of a number of women, the cook(s) of any particular dish were not anonymous and the quality of the cooking was not unnoticed.
There were a number of people with a local reputation for their expertise in preparing certain "traditional" foods: some people grew their own hominy-corn and were skilled at making hominy, for example, and others were noted for the quality of their smoked fish. Some of these people, although not explicitly "doing business," made a moderate amount of money selling such products, although Wub-e-ke-niew was not entirely alone in the principled stance from which he refused to sell almost everything (although he was generous with gifts). Wub-e-ke-niew and I gave away more than half of our maple sugar and maple syrup every year. Some went to urban kin from whom no reciprocity was to be expected. Most of what we gave to people who helped in the sugarbush, as well as that which was given as incidental gifts, eventually "came back" through the circulation of gifts emicly understood as merely incidental to the social relationships: hominy, fish and venison, home-made jellies and pickles, frozen blueberries, home-baked bread, commodities, other food (including an institutional-sized box of "Tater Tots" from a windfall found by the giver still-frozen at the dump), roofing tin, vehicle parts, whatever.
Ahnishinahbæótjibway gift-giving is important, and the circulation of gifts significant in the analysis I undertake in this paper. Such manifestations of community and generosity are also difficult to "translate" into a world-view as strongly influenced by market-economics as that of Euroamerican academics. For the moment, I shall observe that it is irrelevant and misleading to approach it as a tit-for-tat exchange. Although there was a (flexible) "going rate" for some goods and services which were strongly influenced by the market economy and/or which involved significant cash outlay (e.g. walleye fillets, rides to Bemidji{8}), some kinds of gifts explicitly circulated outside the realm of monetarized transactions. Trying to establish a "going rate" between carburetors and venison, for example, would have been worse than foolish--asking questions about relative market value would have insulted the people involved.
One further comment needs to be made
here: all but a very few of the people with whom I associated the most
closely
at Red Lake are now deceased.
Respectful readers will pause here for a moment of silence.
There were once many different ways to hunt deer at Red Lake; most of these were described to me by elders, or detailed in hunting stories, but were not, to the best of my knowledge, employed between 1979 and 1997. Among these were: snaring deer, "drives" in which a number of people would walk through the woods chasing the deer toward people who were "posted" and would shoot the deer as they appeared, sneaking up on deer from downwind and clubbing them (e.g. with an axe or jack{9}), hunting with a rifle from horse-back, night-hunting illuminated by birchbark-and-pitch torches, and going along the shoreline in a boat and drowning deer in the water. (This last was reportedly a spur-of-the-moment strategy employed when the woman who encountered the deer did not have a gun with her; she evinced pride that she had been strong enough, she said, to hold the deer under the water long enough to drown it.{10}) There were other alleged strategies for deer-hunting which were described in hunting stories of the "tall tale" genre, for example tying cans to the back of a pickup truck with long flexible wires so that they would drag, and driving along the road in the expectation that the deer's curiosity would overcome their caution, and the would-be hunter could shoot the deer as they chased after the truck to investigate the unusual noise.
There were also ways of hunting which were still used, but fairly infrequently. The most notable of these is hunting from a tree-stand built with a clear line-of-sight either along a trail frequented by deer, or across a meadow where deer habitually graze. I have seen people use a block of livestock-salt as an additional enticement to the deer. Deer are also known to be attracted to apples and clover; I have heard of people planting clover in the area visible from their stand, but leaving apples for deer was also sometimes a matter of giving the deer treats in a friendly manner, rather than "baiting" them near a tree-stand. The use of tree-stands is fairly common among white hunters, according to people at Red Lake, and I have seen a number of permanently-built stands in areas frequented by white hunters, sometimes appointed with such luxuries as a roof, rifle-rests and upholstered seats salvaged from automobiles. There was a certain amount of criticism of whites' use of tree-stands by people at Red Lake, including vivid and humorous tales of deer getting cricks in their necks from walking through the woods looking up into the trees for hunters.
Some Indians residing on White Earth reservation, which is subject to Minnesota hunting limits, licenses and regulations (under a federal statute commonly referred to as "Public Law 280") also employ the hunting strategy of running into deer with their cars, particularly in the dense deer populations of certain "wilderness" parks. This is a potentially expensive, even dangerous way of hunting, and is unnecessary at Red Lake, although accidental collisions with deer are sometimes unavoidable. Most of the people with whom I associated closely at Red Lake would, if she/he hit a deer, stop to see if the deer was dead, if it was wounded kill it if practicable, then either take the deer, hide it in the brush to be retrieved later, or give it to someone who would use it (although there were also "it happened to me" stories about (sometimes named) whites living near (identified) places where deer frequently cross the road who "hear the sound (of a car hitting a deer) and are right there" (to claim and take the deer). Inadvertent vehicular "hunting" of a deer can give rise to longstanding joking with a person whose car was damaged in a collision with a deer, in the vein of, "Let's go hunting ... we'll use your car."
The methods of hunting generally used at Red Lake were walking through the woods in areas where one expected to find a deer, and using a motor vehicle to traverse the back roads, "looking for a deer." Some people may have hunted from boats, although my impression is that this was talked about more than it was still done. All of these kinds of hunting were done both during the day, and at night with lights--in reservation parlance, "shining" deer. Some of the men on Red Lake reservation had built fairly elaborate wooden "scaffolds" in the back of their (preferably four-wheel drive) pickup trucks, where the person doing the "shooting" would stand to scan the roadside ditches, woods, fields and swamps for deer. When a deer was sighted, either the person driving would also see the deer and stop, or the person in the back of the pickup truck would knock on the roof of the cab, and the driver would stop and back up if necessary for a clear shot. At night, the person who was shooting would shine a light, often a home-engineered device incorporating an automobile headlight or similar source of illumination, and powered via a long wire attached with alligator clips to the battery of the vehicle being driven. (When hunting on foot or from a boat, the light was often powered by a motorcycle battery.) Especially in the early fall, there were "shiners" out every night, all night on the reservation back-roads, looking for deer.
"Jacklighting" (one of the local white terms for shining) is illegal within the boundaries of Minnesota jurisdictions, the reasoning being that deer will be mesmerized and will simply stand there and stare at the light until they are shot. As everyone who has shined off of the reservation hunting knows, this is at least a moderately accurate description of the deer's behavior in areas where jacklighting is illegal and therefore relatively infrequent. The deer are, as one informant put it, "tame," and some Indians have developed elaborate strategies for off-reservation hunting, including using hand-made silencers and hunting when lightening camouflages their on-and-off use of a light. (The challenge in such illicit hunting comes from evading the game wardens, rather than from hunting quasi-domesticated deer.) However, shining is legal at Red Lake, and most reservation deer will do no more than glance at the light before turning their heads so that their highly reflective eyes are no longer visible and then, not infrequently, departing.
Red Lake deer have also long been hunted from motor vehicles, and are leery at the sound of them approaching. Many hunters thus park in places to which they anticipate deer will return after the sound of their vehicle has vanished, and either sit in their trucks waiting for the deer's return, or park near an area where they expect to find deer and then walk. Sometimes Wub-e-ke-niew would park, then walk through the woods, circling back toward the pickup truck after an interval which he felt was long enough to prompt "naturally nosy" deer to come toward the truck to investigate.
Deer at Red Lake lived with the seasonal cycles, "yarding" into fairly large herds after the mating season in the fall, wintering in cedar swamps (until almost all of those swamps were logged off, burned or flooded by the dam), giving birth to fawns in the spring, moving in harmony with seasonal changes in forage, water-saturation of the ground, and other factors including intensity of deer-flies during the late spring and summer. Wub-e-ke-niew's and some others' success in hunting came not from relentlessly shining the back-roads, night after night, but from a deep understanding of deer.
Ahnishinahbæótjibway hunting can also be described as a dance, a multi-dimensional discourse between deer and human beings in which full attention is paid to what Wub-e-ke-niew described as "the energy," and to the harmonies and interrelationships between living beings who have shared their lives and deaths as a part of the same land for thousands of generations. Wub-e-ke-niew's admonitions that I needed to maintain a harmonious center-of-my-being, a clear and balanced mind, to be without greed and to move gracefully with the shifting energy patterns, et cetera, were reiterated by other Ahnishinahbæótjibway. Many of the concepts and understandings which are crucial to Ahnishinahbæótjibway hunting are completely beyond the paradigms of mainstream Euroamerica, and are difficult to explain in a Euroamerican context. I shall touch upon "the energy" as an example.
Wub-e-ke-niew believed that the meeting of deer and hunter was, on some level, an agreement. He perceived the energy of the deer, sometimes before he even left on a hunt, and usually knew where the deer was before he ever saw him/her. "Around the next corner," he would tell me, or "there, in that clump of trees," and he was almost always right. Sometimes, we would stop and gather "swamp tea" or berries, and there were times when he would simply admire the deer rather than shooting--this was a part of his long-term connection with the environment; he danced with the deer rather than single-mindedly pursuing them. The relationship between deer and hunter was one of gifts: consciously and freely giving rather than forcibly taking--"the energy" had to be harmonious. There was one fall when he and a friend made several trips to "the narrows" (the western isthmus between upper and lower Red Lake) to "wait for" an old swamp buck whom they had no intention of killing. They simply went to visit him, and when someone else shot that old buck, the two men mourned and said that it was foolish to kill an old swamp buck.
When Wub-e-ke-niew did kill a deer, a moose, or even a partridge or a rabbit, he always smoked: one of the nearly-invisible "ceremonies" of the Ahnishinahbæótjibway for whom, as Wub-e-ke-niew explained, there was no dichotomy of "sacred" and "profane," no boundary between "spirit" and "material" worlds. Some of the Métis (and their anthropologists) would have classified what Wub-e-ke-niew was doing as "hunting magic," which has inaccurate connotations. Wub-e-ke-niew's focus was on maintaining a longstanding and harmonious interrelationship between the people, the Dodems, and everyone else (in the epistemology of a language in which even certain rocks are animate, and which stresses dynamic patterns of relationship rather than discrete objects). In his own terms, he was being practical. Like the majority of people living on Red Lake Indian reservation at that time, there were a few times when we were absolutely flat broke in monetary terms (the kind of broke involving searching coat pockets for small change, rolling cigarettes out of tobacco salvaged from butts, and hocking something). But, we never went hungry. We gave away food (in retrospect, we gave away some of every deer we ever got), and food was given back to us when we needed it, either by other people or by Grandmother Earth. Just once, there was a morning when we had nothing to eat. Then, Wub-e-ke-niew took a walk with his rifle, and came home with a duck. Wub-e-ke-niew's epistemology was one in which "greed" was insane, inconceivable--and we always had "enough." Hunting was an inherent part of the interrelationship between the Ahnishinahbæótjibway ("We, the People") and Grandmother Earth. If one lived in harmony and with "good energy," it worked, and Wub-e-ke-niew told a number of people the story of the duck who was given to us when we really needed it as an illustration of the viability of Ahnishinahbæótjibway ways-of-being.
There is much more that could be detailed about deer-hunting, including facets which are more than marginally relevant to interpretations of "economics" which underlie some aspects of consumption theory. Of particular interest are the grassroots geography and processes underlying generally recognized "rights" in the multidimensional mosaic of where certain people and families hunted (the geography varied depending on whether one was "looking for" a rabbit, partridge, deer or a moose), set their nets, picked berries, "knocked" rice, and made gardens--and the interstitial processes at the discongruent intersections between Ahnishinahbæótjibway ways of being and the often mutually incompatible market-oriented and/or bureaucratically fostered "resource" use/abuse, extraction and "exploitation." However, the background information necessary for a clear and accurate description is lengthy, and fairly fine-grained detail is necessary for a clear analysis of the overlapping and sometimes conflicting understandings and systems in the context of the several paradigms of cultural orientation of the people involved. I regret that it is not feasible to address these aspects of Red Lake deer-hunting here.
Deer-hunting heightens awareness of the world in multiple and interrelated ways, some of which are touched upon below. Another important aspect of perception, intrinsic to deer-hunting and Ahnishinahbæótjibway epistemology, but which space precludes my detailing in this paper, involves the omnipresent reality of tracks. Except on the unyielding near-trackless hard surfaces manufactured by urbanity, the world is filled with tracks: utterly readable trails across fresh-fallen snow, physical footprints in soft earth, leaves on the forest floor shifted slightly in passing, branches from which the berries have been removed in certain patterns, trees touched in clearly discernable ways by generations passed ... and the social tracks preserved in oral history sometimes for centuries. Life-processes make tracks, clearly written for all who care to read them, clearly remembered by those who may choose to tell them--and for anyone who tries to blur his/her tracks, there is another who can discern both the marks and the attempt to disguise them. Tracks inscribe even the most surreptitious footsteps in the public record, mean that privacy is maintained by "respect," and are a ubiquitous and tangible reality-check. According to Wub-e-ke-niew, Ahnishinahbæótjibway "reality" extended beyond Euroamerican "truth"--tracks are a part of that.
Deer make imprints of hooves on the earth, antler-rubbings on trees, swirls of grass where they have bedded, nibbled tender tips of shrubs. They make "roads" and paths. And, deer make spoor, just like everyone else. In the context of mainstream Euroamerican society (where modern cities would be uninhabitable without plumbing), such natural functions become matters about which discussion is tightly constrained by social convention, and even if there were ample blank pages to fill with text here, I would not belabor the topic. The differences between a flush-toilet society in which excrement is "waste" often synonymous with obscenity (and even introducing the topic in an academic paper may make some readers subtly uncomfortable), and that of a people for whom the spoor of many species is an inherent and information-rich part of the landscape, gradually melding with the body of Grandmother Earth through the cycles of the warm seasons, are worth serious consideration, though. So are the many species of flies, ticks, gnats and mosquitoes ... there is much which could be written, and relatively little space/time in which to write it.
Deer-hunting is one of several integrated aspects of Ahnishinahbæótjibway permacultural subsistence. With all due respect for vegetarian readers, I have focused on hunting rather than on permacultural or garden-cultivated plants because some aspects of hunting-based subsistence provide a clearer basis from which to reconsider Western analyses of consumption.
Long-term sustainable interrelationships between large mammals and hunters involve dynamic discourse and intimate understanding of both the habitat and habits of the hunted animals, in this case deer. In Ahnishinahbæótjibway terms, respect for deer as living beings and harmonious energy between human beings and deer (as well as the rest of the environment) are also necessary. Euroamerican forestry-management terms such as "maintaining the viability of the herd" and "deer harvest" have hierarchical interrelationships embedded within them, and only present a part of the total picture (and that inaccurately, from an Ahnishinahbæótjibway perspective). Deer and human beings are both dependent on the same environment, one which they have shared for countless generations, and are, ultimately, complimentary aspects of the same whole-systems.
Ahnishinahbæótjibway see deer as intelligent living beings, who feel, think, reason, have spirituality and communicate both with each other and with other species including humans. In the context of the Dodems, there were, prior to the Holocaust of most of the indigenous peoples of these continents, Ahnishinahbæótjibway of the Deer Dodem who had blood-kinship relationships with deer, in the same way as the people of Wub-e-ke-niew's Bear Dodem were related to bears. (The Ahnishinahbæótjibway of the Deer Dodem are now, along with most of the other Dodems, extinct, although many years ago I knew a Shoshone woman who spoke as one of a Deer Dodem, and who acknowledged her kinship with deer in her name.) People of a Deer Dodem [obviously] would not hunt or eat deer.
There are other reasons why a person would at least temporarily refrain from hunting, for example as Wub-e-ke-niew did after his rifle was used by someone else to kill a bear. Similar such restraints on hunting and other behavior are codified into proscriptive and prescriptive rules by some revitalized "traditionalist" Métis, for example that a man should not hunt while his wife is bleeding (i.e., menstruating). Wub-e-ke-niew objected to such rules at length--a part of his point was that they rigidified and abstracted epistemology, and that the formalization of isolated and decontextualized Ahnishinahbæótjibway practices into "sacred tradition" transposed and transformed them into "disconnected" hierarchical infrastructure and thus destroyed Ahnishinahbæótjibway meanings. Wub-e-ke-niew lived in harmony with the energy patterns of Ahnishinahbæótjibway reality, the times when he refrained from hunting being one manifestation of that way-of-being.
From an Ahnishinahbæótjibway perspective, the concepts discussed in the preceding three paragraphs are also relevant to plants. But, for Euroamericans whose native English language has embedded within it hierarchical relationships like the "chain of being," an analysis is probably more accessible when explained in terms of deer than mushrooms or non-domesticated alder bushes.
A subsistence pattern which includes hunting large mammals influences residence patterns and community size. No place is exactly the "same" as another place, and a very deep interrelationship with the environment is one of the requisites for long-term successful, efficient and sustainable hunting. Ahnishinahbæótjibway residence was generally patrilocal, and (most) men were more extensively involved in hunting than were (most) women. In addition to residence patterns in which most of the hunters live on land with whom they have a lifelong familiarity, patrilocality also results in local communities largely comprised of inter-related men, and women whose kinship-ties with their natal families link local communities. When, as for the Ahnishinahbæótjibway, this pattern is enhanced through the chronological depth of the Dodems, vast networks of kinship connect a broad geographical area into an interconnected system.
In the absence of mechanized transportation, people who hunt large mammals have a vested interest in residing within reasonable proximity of the animals they hunt--moose are heavy, and deer are not light. There is a maximum community size beyond which "enough" meat could result in non-sustainable numbers of animals being hunted. There is also a minimum optimal size for local communities in this context, constrained in warm weather by parameters including the number of people who can process and eat about 1,500 pounds of meat before it spoils. When working in the open in the summer or early fall, people who are "taking care of" hunted animals must consider not only bacterial decomposition, but also flies. I do not intend to be grossly graphic, but it is relevant that in some kinds of weather, one has only a few hours before starting to have problems with maggots. An animal needs to be skinned, cut up, distributed and put under cover in that time period: in my experience it takes about six person-days to take care of a moose, using steel hand-tools and cutting three-fourths of the meat to be deep-frozen--preparing the meat for drying would take longer. This is a relevant factor influencing minimum community size, as is the fact that a mature moose is too heavy for just two people to even budge, much less carry across marshy land. Two people can "drag" a deer, and take care of it in a few hours--but not a moose.
A number of elders have commented about the impact of home freezers on "community." Before the importation of artificial refrigeration, the most practical way to "preserve" fresh meat and fish in warm weather was to give it away, at least in the context of an egalitarian community comprised of people whose value system emphasized generosity. In a fluid system of generalized generosity (rather than tit-for-tat reciprocity), the gifts of the land, the deer, the ecosystem flowed to the people who needed them, when they needed them, in a harmonious system of give-and-take--but never just "taking and taking," as Wub-e-ke-niew phrased it in criticizing Euroamerican values. In the context of a community where there is general consensus concerning generous give-and-take, the system works. Greed interrupts the flow, and throws the harmonious circulation of gifts out of balance. When the excess of food which someone might greedily keep for themselves was utterly useless (it would rot), then the viability of a community knit together by generosity was obvious, the legitimacy of a value-system based on generosity was self-evident. The stench of greed was, literally and palpably, rotten, and the putrescent fruits of